Olhão
Olhão sits on the eastern Algarve coast of Portugal, at the edge of the Ria Formosa; a protected lagoon of salt marshes, sandbanks and seagrass meadows that stretches for miles, home to seahorses, cuttlefish, and dolphins that sometimes play just offshore. It is a working fishing town with a sardine-canning heritage, a creative soul, and a look all its own: whitewashed cubist rooftops, cobbled streets, faded grandeur, and, on the walls of the old canning district, commissioned graffiti murals telling the story of Olhão's fishing history.
If you're drawn to the slow life, having long lunches, unhurried mornings, the kind of place where you soon know the person who pours your morning coffee, then Olhão is for you. This isn't a resort. There's no glitz, no polished service, no call for high heels. What there is: warm and hospitable people, a blossoming creative community, proud working fishermen bringing in the morning catch, and an authentic way of life.
The best way to meet Olhão is to walk out of the front door and let it introduce itself. Wander down toward the waterfront through the tangle of cobbled streets; getting lost along the way is part of the fun. At the sea front, the two market halls sit right at the water's edge (fish to the right; fresh fruit, vegetables and meat to the left), and on Saturday mornings the waterfront spills over with local farmers, churro stalls, and the town's easy weekend rhythm.
Inland, flat bike paths trace the edge of the lagoon out toward the salt pans, where at Mar o Morto, the Algarve's own Dead Sea, you can float weightless in mineral-rich water and coat yourself in dark, silky mud.
We share our own favourite spots with guests through the Casa Fuzetta app: Cafe Tinto for coffee, the ReCreativa when there's a clamour for outdoor cinema (Rear Window is a favourite) or maybe an exhibition by some of the local artists. There are restaurants and beach bars we return to again and again because, well, Olhão thrives on its richly deserved foodie reputation. Equally, there are plenty of places we haven't tried, and new ones opening all the time. Don't be limited by our list. Half the joy of Olhão is finding your own.
The Ria Formosa Natural Park
“The Ria Formosa lagoon is by far the most extensive vegetated transitional zone and juvenile fish nursery in southern Portugal.” - (a 2022 study into the influence of seagrass meadows in the lagoon)
This means we’re lucky to regularly see dolphins, seahorses, seabirds, whales and even orcas just off the coast.
With healthy beaches and the freshest fish and shellfish, the lagoon sustains Olhao and its community in a host of different ways..
The lagoon has three principal islands: Armona, Deserta and Culatra. Each has its own distinct personality. See more on these below.
THE ISLANDS
Not to visit at least one of the Islands (Armona, Culatra, Farol or Deserta) would be criminal!
They each have a distinct feel and vibe but each has beautiful unspoilt beaches, and a selection of low key restaurants/beach bars where you will happily while away the day.
The islands are easy to get to: you can either take a small ferry which runs multiple times per day during the summer or a river taxi. They all go from the same place, just 150m east along the waterfront from the market.
Armona
Armona is the closest of the islands.
If the weather is nice, the Lanacosta Restaurant (aka the Belgians) at the beginning of the boardwalk leading to the beach on the Atlantic side of the island is a good spot. The restaurant is run by a lovely couple Jana & Arne. If going with a big group, and especially if out of season, booking is essential.
Camaleo beach bar on the beach-end of the boardwalk mentioned above is a lovely spot for a late afternoon drink.
In the winter months, a simple solution is to pick up some picnic snacks from the bakery on the walk to the ferry.
Deserta
If you are in the mood to splash out, the Estamine restaurant on Ilha Deserta is difficult to beat. The owner Isabel has become a good friend, the food and location are fantastic and beyond the restaurant, the island lives up to its name. You will have the place to yourselves before/after lunch and on occasion, you might even be able to spot dolphins playing off the beach.
Culatra and Farol
These are great places to visit and explore. Culatra has a permanent fishing community with its own Mayor and school.
Farol has a cool beach bar on the Atlantic ocean (Maramais, Farol) and as with Armona it is fun to walk across the island admiring the colourful gardens of the holiday homes and cottages built on this stretch of island.
local events
Saturday Market
Every Saturday morning the waterfront outside the Olhão market bursts into life with small holders and the local community coming to buy and sell what was in the ground at their farms just a couple of days before.
Don’t miss the farturas! (a big step up on its little cousins, churros)
Santo Antonio
12/13 June – the feast of Santo Antonio is a huge event in Lisbon, but the Olhanese don’t like to miss out on a party!
You won’t be able to miss the tables and bunting across every alley, nor sardines being grilled on every street corner.
Seafood Festival
Every August – o Festival do Marisco starts in Faro but reaches its peak when it arrives in Olhão. It has become a major event over the last few years, attracting thousands of locals and visitors alike, drawn by the spectacular local produce and live music.
Flea Markets
Every weekend, somewhere in the eastern Algarve, there will be a flea market where you can get lucky and find a hidden gem … If nothing else, it is always a fun day out.
The Recreativa
A community centre in the heart of Olhão. This space boasts a wonderful space for concerts, art exhibitions, vinyl record markets, yoga classes and outdoor cinema. It also has a cafe/bar we love to find a little slice of peace in.
Sunsets in Olhao can be truly breathtaking. No filter was used in my taking of this photo.